Start
by crossing the two sticks or dowels at perpendicular or 90 degree
angles.
Make
a Clove Hitch on the vertical stick or dowel near the point where
the two sticks cross. This fastens the rope to the stick.
Weave
the rope under and over the crossed sticks alternately. To do
this, run the rope over the horizontal bar, around behind the
vertical bar, then back over the face of the horizontal bar on
the left. Tighten snugly, then bring the rope behind the vertical
bar and up the right front side of the horizontal bar. Repeat
this three or four times, keeping the rope tight.
When
you have finished weaving the lashing, then "FRAP" it
by wrapping the rope between the poles (in front of the back stick
and in back of the front stick), pulling tightly. This tightens
the connected poles.
Finish
your lashing with another Clove Hitch.
Diagonal
Lashing
Use
Diagonal lashing is used to bind poles together that cross each
other but do not touch when their ends are lashed in place in a
structure.
Comments
The diagonal lashing gets its name from the fact that the wrapping
turns cross the poles diagonally. The diagonal lashing can be used
to bind poles that cross each other from 90o to 45o. If the angle
between the poles is less than 45o a shear lashing should be used.
The diagonal lashing makes use of the timber hitch to pull poles
together that are not touching each other. The timber hitch allows
the poles to be drawn together without changing the relative positions
of the poles. [NOTE] If a square lashing were used to bind poles
that do not touch, the beginning clove hitch would pull the cross
pole toward the clove hitch causing unnecessary bowing of the cross
pole and could also produce a force that would act along the length
of the pole to which the clove hitch is tied. These additional forces,
if strong enough, can place unnecessary strain on other lashing
within the structure causing the structure to twist and fail.
Instructions
Tie
a timber hitch diagonally around both poles.
Start
the wrapping turns on the opposite diagonal to the timber hitch,
by pulling the rope tight so that the poles contact each other.
Take
3 to 4 wrapping turns; keep the wrapping turns parallel; pull
each wrapping turn tight. [NOTE] If the wrapping turns are allowed
to cross, the increased friction between the strands of the rope
will make it difficult to tighten the wrapping turns.
Start
the second set of wrapping turns by going past and around the
vertical pole. [NOTE] Going around the pole the rope allows the
direction of the rope to be changed without crossing the first
set of wrapping diagonally.
Take 3 to 4 wrapping turns; be sure to keep the wrapping turns
parallel; pull each wrapping turn tight.
Start the frapping turns by going past and around one of the poles.
[NOTE] Going around the pole with the rope allows the direction
of the rope to be changed without crossing the wrapping turns
diagonally.
Take 2 to 3 frapping turns; keep the frapping turns parallel.
Be sure to pull each turn tight.
End the lashing with a clove hitch. Take the first half hitch
of the clove hitch by going past and then around one of the poles.
Lock the half hitch tight against the lashing by working it tight.
Take a second half hitch around the pole.
Work the second half hitch tight against the first half hitch
so that the clove hitch is locked against the lashing.
Note
If very smooth rope is used, the lashing can be made more secure by adding
a third or forth half hitch to the clove hitch.
Tripod
Lashing
Description
A shear lashing around 3 poles.
Use
To bind three poles together, for the construction of a tripod. To
bind three poles together that contact at the same point in a structure.
Comments
The tripod lashing is a shear lashing that binds three poles together
at the same point. The tripod lashing gets it name from the fact that
its most common use is the construction of a tripod. The tripod lashing
can be used just about any where in a structure that three poles cross
each other at the same point and the same time in the sequence of
construction. Tripod lashing takes two main forms; with racked wrapping
turns (the rope is woven between the poles) and with plain wrapping
turns (the rope is wrapped around the poles without weaving the rope
between the poles). When the lashing is made with racking turns the
rope contacts each pole around its entire circumference ; this contact
makes the tripod lashing with racking turns the most secure form of
tripod lashing: therefore tripod lashing with racking turns should
be used when safety is important. However, for light structures where
there would be no danger if the lashing slipped, the faster to tie
tripod lashing with plain wrapping turns may be used.
Laying Out The Poles
For most tripod lashings, lay the pole side by side with the butt
ends aligned. The alignment of the butts of the pole insures that
the tripod legs are the desired length
Note
The practice of laying the center pole in the opposite direction to
the outside poles creates several problems. When the poles are laid
in opposite directions the wrappings must be put on loosely so that
when the center pole is rotated to its proper position the lashing
is tightened around the poles. If the wrappings are put on too tight,
the rope is stretched causing damage to the rope fibers, therefore
weakening the lashing. On the other hand, if the rope is wrapped two
loosely, the lashing will not tighten enough when the center pole
is rotated and the lashing will be able to slip along the length of
the pole. Either way, the rope to loose or the rope too tight, a dangerous
situation is created.
Setting Up A Tripod
Set up the tripod by crossing the outside poles so that the cross
point of the poles is under the center pole. Crossing the outside
poles under the center pole causes part of the load that is placed
on the tripod to be taken up by the wood to wood contact of the poles.
Japanese
Square Lashing
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Comments:
A lashing used in lightweight construction work.
It is equivalent to a Square Lashing. and when done correctly should
be just as strong.
Much quicker to do than a Square Lashing.
The knot is finished off with a Reef Knot.
A shear lashing around 3 poles.
Filipino
Diagonal Lashing
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Comments:
A lashing
used in lightweight construction work.
Start
with the middle of the rope, tucking the running ends through the
middle "loop" after going round both spars. Use the "loop"
to pull the spars together.
Now
proceed as for a diagonal lashing taking the running end round both
spars, keeping both ends together.
Separate
the ends and take frapping turns between the spars, pulling the rope
tight as you do so.
Complete
the frapping turns and finish off with a reef (square) knot.
Round
Lashing
Comments:
Used
to lash two poles together (constructing a flagpole).
Tie
a clove hitch round the bottom pole.
Wind
the rope around both six or seven times.
Finish
with two half hitches round both poles.
The
lashing can be tightened by driving a small wooden peg between the
poles.
If
possible force a wedge under the lashings to make them really tight.
If the spars are vertical, bang the wedge in downwards.
Shear
Lashing
Comments:
A sheer lashing is often used to bind adjacent poles together. It is
also a good way to reinforce a broken or weak pole. The frapping turns
used to tighten the lashing may be omitted and replaced with wedges
inserted between the poles.
A loose
Sheer Lashing made around the ends of two poles will allow the poles
to be opened out and used as an A-frame. It can also be used to form
a tripod just like the Figure-of-eight lashing.
Lay
out the poles. For most lashings you will want to lay the poles
side by side with the butt ends aligned (thicker ends).
Tie
a clove hitch around one of the outside poles and secure the standing
part by wrapping it around the running part (or trap it under the
first turns).
Note: If you only lashing two poles together it may be better to
simply tie the clove hitch around both poles and pull tight.
Pass
the rope around the poles to form a first turn.
Pulling
each turn tight made a series of turns until the lashing is at least
as long as the combined diameters of the two poles (usually a set
of 4 to 6 turns will be sufficient).
Tighten
the lashing with a frapping turn by taking the rope down between
two poles at one end of the turns. This should be difficult to do
if the turns have been pulled tightly (as they should be). Bring
the rope back up between the poles at the other end of the lashing
and pull tight. Repeat 2 or 3 times.
Start
the second set of frapping turns by taking the rope around the centre
pole and frapping. Take the second set of frapping turns in the
opposite direction to the first set.
Repeat
for any additional poles.
Pass
the rope once more between the poles then around one pole and tuck
it under itself to form a half hitch. Pull this tight and make a
second half hitch forming a clove hitch by taking the rope around
the same pole and tucking it under itself.
Notes on A-Frame Lashing:
An A-frame lashing or Sheer Legs is made in the same way as a Sheer
Lashing with the lashing and frapping turns made slightly loose so
that the poles can be opened out. It is often used to raise a boat
mast or to form the legs of a rope bridge. You must take care to ensure
that the legs of the frame do not slip.
Notes on Tripods:
Make a tripod by using a Figure-of-eight lashing on three poles. Set
up the tripod by crossing the outside poles so that the cross point
of the poles is under the centre pole. This makes sure that part of
the load is taken by the wood in contact.
If
a symmetrical arrangement of the poles is needed within a structure
the tripod can be set up by rotating the poles around the lashing.
This means that the load is supported only by the ropes and the
joint becomes flexible and so the tripod may become unstable.
Splices
Back
Splice or End Splice
A simple
and effective method of finishing the end of a rope in which a crown
knot is made with the strands at the end which are then spliced back
into the rope.
Eye
Splice
A method
of putting a permanent eye in the end of a rope. The strands are unlaid,
a loop of suitable size formed and the three strands are spliced or
worked in and out of the rope, usually under and over. Three "tucks"
are normally taken.
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