Orienteering

Maps & Map
Reading
A map is a two-dimensional representation of the three-dimensional
world you'll be hiking in.
All maps will
have some basic features in common and map reading is all about
learning to understand their particular "language." You'll
end up using a variety of maps to plan and run your trip but perhaps
the most useful map is a topographic map. A topographic map uses
markings such as contour lines to simulate the three-dimensional
topography of the land on a two-dimensional map. In the U.S. these
maps are usually U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) maps. Other maps
that you'll find helpful are be local trail maps which often have
more accurate and up-to-date information on specific trails than
USGS maps do. Here's a brief overview of the basic language of
maps.
Latitude and Longitude:
Maps are drawn
based on latitude and longitude lines. Latitude lines run east
and west and measure the distance in degrees north
or south from the equator (0° latitude). Longitude lines run
north and south intersecting at the geographic poles. Longitude
lines measure the distance in degrees east and west from the prime
meridian that runs through Greenwich, England. The grid created
by latitude and longitude lines allows us to calculate an exact
point using these lines as X axis and Y axis coordinates.
Both
latitude and longitude are measured in degrees (°).
1° = 60 minutes
1 minute = 60 seconds
Therefore:
7 ½ minutes = 1/8 of 60 minutes = 1/8 of a degree
15 minutes = ¼ of 60 minutes = ¼ of a degree
Scale:
All maps will
list their scales in the margin or legend. A scale of 1:250,000
(be it inches, feet, or meters) means that 1 unit
on the map is the equivalent of 250,000 units in the real world.
So 1 inch measured on the map would be the equivalent of 250,000
inches in the real world. Most USGS maps are either 1:24,000, also
known as 7 ½ minute maps, or 1:62,500, known as 15 minute
maps (the USGS is no longer issuing 15 minute maps although the
maps will remain in print for some time).
Standard topographic maps are usually published in 7.5-minute
quadrangles. The map location is given by the latitude and longitude
of the southeast (lower right) corner of the quadrangle. The date
of the map is shown in the column following the map name; a second
date indicates the latest revision. Photo-revised maps have not
been field checked.
Map
Size
|
Scale
|
Covers
|
Map
to Landscape
|
Metric
|
7 ½ minute
|
1:24,000
|
1/8
of a degree
|
1
inch = 2,000 feet (3/8 mile)
2.64 inches = 1 mile
|
(1
centimeter = 240 meters)
|
15
minute
|
1:62,500
|
¼ of
a degree
|
1
inch = ~1 mile
|
(1
centimeter = 625 meters)
|
Map Symbols and Colors:
USGS topographic maps use the following symbols and colors to
designate different features
-
Black - man-made features
such as roads, buildings, etc.
-
Blue - water, lakes, rivers,
streams, etc.
-
Brown - contour lines
-
Green - areas with substantial
vegetation (could be forest, scrub, etc.)
-
White - areas with little
or no vegetation; white is also used to depict permanent snowfields
and glaciers
-
Red - major highways; boundaries
of public land areas
-
Purple - features added to
the map since the original survey. These features are based
on aerial photographs but have not been checked on land.

Map Legend
The map legend contains a number of important
details. The figures below display a standard USGS map legend.
In addition, a USGS map includes latitude and longitude as
well as the names of the adjacent maps (depicted on the top,
bottom, left side, right side and the four corners of the map).
The major features on the map legend are show below.
-
Map Name
-
Year of Production and Revision
-
General Location in State
-
Next Adjacent Quadrangle Map
-
Map Scale
-
Distance Scale
-
Contour Interval
-
Magnetic Declination
-
Latitude and Longitude


Contour Lines
Contour lines are a method of depicting the
3-dimensional character of the terrain on a 2-dimensional
map. Just like isobars in the atmosphere depict lines of
equal atmospheric pressure, contour lines drawn on the map
represent equal points of height above sea level.
Look at the three-dimensional drawing of the mountain
below. Imagine that it is an island at low tide. Draw a line
all around the island at the low tide level. Three hours later,
as the tide has risen, draw another line at the water level and
again three hours later. You will have created three contour
lines each with a different height above sea level. As you see
below, the three dimensional shape of the mountain is mapped
by calculating lines of equal elevation all around the mountain,
and then transferring these lines onto the map.
On
multi-colored maps, contour lines are generally represented
in brown. The map legend will indicate the contour
interval—the distance in feet (meters, etc.) between each
contour line. There will be heavier contour lines every 4th> or
5th contour line that are labeled with the height above sea level.
The images below illustrate how a variety of surface features
can be identified from contour lines.

3D View of Mountain showing how contours
relate to height

Top View of Mountain showing contours

Drawn Contour Lines
-
Steep slopes - contours
are closely spaced
-
Gentle slopes - contours
are less closely spaced
-
Valleys - contours form
a V-shape pointing up the hill - these V's are always an
indication of a drainage path which could also be a stream
or river.
-
Ridges - contours form a
V-shape pointing down the hill
-
Summits - contours forming
circles
-
Depressions - are indicated
by circular contour with lines radiating to the center
Measuring Distances
There
are a number of ways to measure distance accurately on
a map. One is to use a piece of string or flexible
wire to trace the intended route. After tracing out your
route, pull the string straight and measure it against the
scale line in the map legend. Another method is to use a
compass (the mathematical kind) set to a narrow distance
on the map scale like ½ mile and then "walk off" your
route. It is a good idea to be conservative and add 5-10%
of the total distance to take into account things like switchbacks
that don't appear on the map. It's better to anticipate a
longer route than a shorter one.
Using the Compass
The compass consists of a magnetized metal
needle that floats on a pivot point. The needle orients to
the magnetic field lines of the earth. The basic orienteering
compass is composed of the following parts:
-
Base plate
-
Straight edge and ruler
-
Direction of travel arrow
-
Compass housing with 360 degree markings
-
North label
-
Index line
-
Orienting arrow
-
Magnetic needle (north end is red)

What is North?
No, this is not a silly question, there are two
types of north.
-
True North: (also known
as Geographic North or Map North - marked as H on a topographic
map) is the geographic north pole where all longitude lines
meet. All maps are laid out with true north directly at the
top. Unfortunately for the wilderness traveler, true north
is not at the same point on the earth as the magnetic north
Pole which is where your compass points.
-
Magnetic North: Think
of the earth as a giant magnet (it is actually). The shape
of
the earth's magnetic field is roughly the same shape as the
field of a bar magnet. However, the earth's magnetic field
is inclined at about 11° from the axis of rotation of
the earth, so this means that the earth's magnetic pole doesn't
correspond to the Geographic North Pole and because the earth's
core is molten, the magnetic field is always shifting slightly.
The red end of your compass needle is magnetized and wherever
you are, the earth's magnetic field causes the needle to
rotate until it lies in the same direction as the earth's
magnetic field. This is magnetic north (marked as MN on a
topographic map). If you locate yourself at any point in
the U.S., your compass will orient itself parallel to the
lines of magnetic force in that area.

Declination
You
can see that location makes a great deal of difference in where
the compass points. The angular difference
between true north and magnetic north is known as the declination
and is marked in degrees on your map. Depending on where you
are, the angle between true north and magnetic north is different.
In the U.S., the angle of declination varies from about 20 degrees
west in Maine to about 21 degrees east in Washington. The magnetic
field lines of the earth are constantly changing, moving slowly
westward (½ to 1 degree every five years). This is why
it is important to have a recent map. An old map will show a
declination that is no longer accurate, and all your calculations
using that declination angle will be incorrect. As you will see,
understanding this distinction becomes important when navigating
with a map and a compass.
Buy Your Compass for the Right Area:
As
well as the magnetic deviation east or west, compasses also
show a vertical "dip" up and down. This
dip varies in different parts of the world and compasses are
specially calibrated for that dip. So you can't take a compass
made for North America and use it in South America and get accurate
readings.
Which North to Use
So we have two types of north to contend with.
When you look at your map, it is drawn in relation to true north;,
when you look at your compass, it points to magnetic north. T
to make the map and compass work together you must decide on
one North as your point of reference and base all your calculations
on that. As you can see the following chart, failure to take
declination into account can put you way off target.
Declination or Degrees Off
Course
|
Error Off Target after Walking
10 Miles
|
1°
|
920 feet (280meters)
|
5°
|
4,600 feet (1,402 meters)
|
10°
|
9,170 feet (2,795 meters)
|
Using Map and Compass
Even after years of using a map and compass I
could never remember how to correct for declination. Do I add
declination or subtract it? What if I'm out west versus in the
east? While navigating through dense fog on a sea kayaking trip,
I finally came up with an easy way to remember. As long as you
remember the basic principles, you can easily work it out in
your head.
What's your Map Declination?
The
first thing you need to know is where you are in relation to
magnetic north. You can find this information
by looking on your map legend. If you look at the map of North
America in below you will see the line roughly marking 0° declination.
If you are on the line where the declination is 0 degrees, then
you don't have to worry about any of this, since magnetic north
and map north are equivalent. (Wouldn't it be nice if all your
trips were on the 0 degree of declination line?) If you are to
the right of that line, your compass will point toward the line
(to the left) and hence the declination is to the west. If you
are to the left of the line, your compass will point toward the
line (to the right) and hence the declination is to the east.
Bearings:
The compass is used primarily to take bearings.
A bearing is a horizontal angle measured clockwise from north
(either magnetic north or true north) to some point (either a
point on a map or a point in the real world). Bearings are used
to accurately travel to a destination or to locate your position.
If you are working from your map, it is called a map bearing
and the angle you are measuring is the angle measured clockwise
from true north on your map to this other point on the map. If
you are taking a bearing off a real point on the landscape with
a compass, you are using your compass to measure the angle clockwise
from magnetic north to this point on the landscape. This is called
a magnetic bearing. Remember that the bearing is measured clockwise.
If you think of true north as 12 o'clock then a bearing to the
right of that (1 o'clock) is greater than true north and a bearing
to the left of True north (11 o'clock) is less than true north.

Map
Bearings & Magnetic Bearings:
If,
you think about your map as an artist's rendition of the world.
It displays true north, but it doesn't include
magnetic fields as the real world does, so you need to make accommodations
when going from your map to the real world. The real world doesn't
have a true north—it's merely a construct of the map—so
you have to make accommodations when going from the real world
to your map.. The basic principle is this: to correct for declination,
you want the map bearing and the magnetic bearing to be equivalent.
If you are lucky enough to be on the line where the declination
is 0°, both are already equivalent, or if you orient your
map with your compass (see page 00) then you have made the two
equivalent. Otherwise, you will need to make your own bearing
corrections by adding or subtracting the declination amount.
That gives us 4 possible permutations to work with:
-
West Declination - Going
from a Map Bearing to a Magnetic Bearing
-
West Declination - Going
from a Magnetic Bearing to a Map Bearing
-
East Declination - Going
from a Map Bearing to a Magnetic Bearing
-
East Declination - Going
from a Magnetic Bearing to a Map Bearing
West Declination:
If
your declination is west, then magnetic north is less than
true north and the map bearing is less than (<)
the magnetic bearing . You need to make the two bearings equivalent
by adding or subtracting the declination.
-
Map Bearing to Magnetic Bearing: If
you are taking a bearing from one point on your map to another
point on the map with respect to true north, then you are
working with the map bearing. Now you want to figure out
where your position is in the magnetic bearing. In order
to transfer this information back to your magnetic bearing
you need to add the declination to your map bearing bearing
to create the proper magnetic bearing. Map bearing + Declination
= Magnetic Bearing.
-
Magnetic Bearing to Map Bearing: If
you use your compass to take a bearing from your current
position to a point on the landscape, then you are working
with the magnetic bearing. Now you want to figure out where
your position is on the map. In order to transfer this information
back to your map you need to subtract the declination from
your magnetic bearing compass bearing to create the proper
map bearing. Magnetic Bearing - Declination = Map Bearing.
If your declination is East then magnetic north
is greater than true north the map bearing is greater than
the magnetic bearing. You need to make the two worlds equivalent
by adding or subtracting the declination.
-
Map Bearing to Magnetic Bearing: If
you are taking a bearing from one point on your map to another
point on the map with respect to true north, then you are
working with the map bearing. Now you want to figure out
where your position is in the magnetic bearing. In order
to transfer this information back to your magnetic bearing
you need to subtract the declination from your map bearing
compass bearing to create the proper magnetic bearing bearing.
Map bearing - Declination = Magnetic Bearing.
-
Magnetic Bearing to Map Bearing: If
you use your compass to take a bearing from your current
position to a point on the landscape, then you are working
with the magnetic bearing. Now you want to figure out where
your position is on the map. In order to transfer this information
back to your map you need to add the declination from your
magnetic bearing compass bearing to create the proper map
bearing. Magnetic bearing + Declination = Map Bearing.

If
the declination is...
|
Then...
|
Map
Bearing to
Magnetic Bearing
|
Magnetic
Bearing to
Map Bearing
|
West
|
Magnetic
North < True North Map Bearing is < the Magnetic
Bearing
|
Map Bearing + Declination = Magnetic Bearing
|
Magnetic
Bearing - Declination = Map Bearing
|
East
|
Magnetic
North > True North Map Bearing is > the Magnetic
Bearing
|
Map
Bearing - Declination = Magnetic Bearing
|
Magnetic
Bearing + Declination = Map Bearing
|
Using Map & Compass Together
Adjusting Your Compass for the Local Declination:
Another way to deal with declination is to adjust your compass. Some
compasses have an outer degree ring that can be unlocked either with
a set screw or a latch. This allows you to reset the compass to account
for declination. For example, if the declination were 14 degrees East,
you could rotate the degree dial to the right so that the magnetic needle
was pointing to 14 degrees instead of 360 degrees. Once you do this,
you will no longer have to add or subtract for declination because your
compass is aligned to true north. Now when the compass needle is inside
the orienting needle, the compass bearing that you read off your compass
will be in relation to true north instead of magnetic north. If you have
a fixed-ring compass, you can mark the declination angle on the compass
ring with a piece of tape.
Wilderness Navigation
Navigation in the wilderness means knowing your starting point,
your destination, and your route to get there.
Check Your Position Regularly;
Make it a habit of keeping your map and compass handy
and refer to them every hour or so to locate your position (more
often in low
visibility). Keep track of your starting time, rest breaks and lunch
stops, and general hiking pace. This will also give you an idea of
how far you have traveled and whether your Time Control Plan is accurate
Orienting the Map:
It is easiest to read a map if the map is oriented to the surrounding
landscape. If you see a valley on your left, then the valley shows
on the left on the map. You can do this by eye or with your compass.
Identify Terrain Features:
With the map oriented, look around for prominent features landscape
features such as mountains, valleys, lakes, rivers, etc. Make a mental
note of the geographical features you will be traveling along and
seeing during the day. If you keep the terrain in your mind, you
will usually have a general idea of where you are just by looking
around.
Tricks of the Trail
Orient Your Map: You can eliminate
the need to correct for declination if you use your compass to
orient the
map
each time.
As long as the map is oriented with respect to magnetic north,
any bearings you take from map to compass or compass to map will
be the
same. For this reason, it's a good idea to always take the time
to orient your map. It will make your life much easier. It also means
that each time you use your map, your will need to re-orient it
with
your compass.
Real Life Scenarios
Let's look at some common backcountry scenarios and see how you can
use your map and compass to navigate.
Scenario #1 - Lost in the Fog:
Okay, you hike in along the trail and then bushwack off trail to
a nearby alpine lake to camp. When you wake up the next morning,
you are fogged in. You know where you are on the map, but you can't
see to find your way out. What you need to do is take a bearing
on your map from your known campsite back to a known point on the
trail that you can identify on the map. Then follow your bearing
through the fog. Here's your procedure:
Taking a Bearing from the Map (Map Not Oriented):
-
Lay the long edge of the compass base plate on the map, making a
line from the starting point to the destination (from point X to
point Y). Since the base plate is parallel to the direction of
travel arrow, the base plate can be used to set the direction to
the destination.
-
Holding the base plate steady, rotate the compass housing until the
compass orienting lines and orienting arrow are pointing to true
north. Here you see the orienting lines and arrow are parallel to
the line from A to B as well as to the map gridlines.
-
Read the bearing (in degrees) from the degree dial
at the point on the compass base plate marked "Read bearing here." In
this case the bearing is 346 degrees.

Taking a Bearing from the Map (Map Oriented to Magnetic
North):
-
Orient the map with the compass.
-
Lay the long edge of the compass base plate on the map, making a
line from the starting point to the destination (from X to Y). Since
the base plate is parallel to the direction of travel arrow, the
base plate can be used to set the direction to the destination.
-
Holding the baseplate steady, rotate the compass
housing until the orienting arrow coincides with the North end of
the magnetic
needle
(known as "boxing the arrow").
-
Read the bearing (in degrees) from the degree dial
at the point on the compass base plate marked "Read bearing here." In
this case the bearing is 338 degrees.

Scenario #2 - Heading to the Summit:
You have been hiking along the trail and found a good campsite that
is marked on the map. You see a summit ridge above treeline that
looks like a great place for photographs, but there's a valley thick
with Douglas fir between you and the summit. What you need to do
is take a bearing from your current position to the summit and use
that to travel through the forest. Here's your procedure:
Taking a Bearing from the Land:
-
Point the compass direction of travel arrow to the destination on the
land.
-
Rotate the compass housing until the north orienting
arrow of the compass housing lines up with the red magnetic needle.
This is referred
to
as "boxing the needle," since you want the needle to be
inside the box defined by the orienting arrow. The north orienting
arrow must
be pointing in the same direction as the red (north) magnetic needle.
Your compass will look like the figure above with the needle boxed.
-
Read the bearing (in degrees) from the degree dial
at the point on the compass base plate "Read bearing here."
Walking a Bearing Taken from the Land:
-
After taking the bearing, as described above, hold the compass level
and in front of you, so that the direction of travel arrow points
to the destination.
-
Rotate your whole body until the magnetic needle lies directly over
the orienting arrow. Make sure the north end of the magnetic needle
points to N on the compass housing. The direction of travel arrow
points to the destination.
-
Site a prominent feature to which your direction of travel arrow
points. Walk to that feature.
-
Continue to sight on other features
along the
bearing and walk to them, until you reach your destination.
Walking a Bearing Taken from the Map:
To walk a bearing taken from the map, you may need to correct for
declination if you did not orient the map to magnetic north before
you took your
bearing. Once you have corrected for declination, follow the same
procedure as indicated above for walking a bearing taken from the
land.
Techniques for Walking a Bearing:
Sometimes the terrain isn't always so cooperative to let you just
follow your bearing in a straight line so there are a number of
techniques
to use when traveling on a bearing.
-
Line of Sight Walk to an obvious landmark—a
tree or boulder that is directly on the bearing. Then take another
bearing on the
next obvious landmark and walk to that. Keep it up until you reach
your
destination. By going to intermediate landmarks, you minimize
the chances of veering off your bearing.
Scenario #3 - Retracing Your Steps to Camp:
You got to the summit and got some great photos, even one of a baby
mountain goat. Now it's time to get back to your campsite. You could
just follow your back bearing (see below) back to your location, but
there is bound to be some error, when you hit the trail where will
you be in relation to your campsite? The best bet is to intentionally
aim off. Here's your procedure:
-
Back Bearings To check your position while walking a bearing, you
can take a back bearing. Before you start to walk on your bearing,
turn around take a bearing 180 degrees off of the bearing you are going
to walk. For example, if you are going to walk a bearing of 45 degrees,
shoot a bearing directly opposite your course of 225 degrees. Locate
some landmark along this bearing. Once you have moved a short distance
along your bearing, turn around and shoot a bearing back to that landmark.
If you are on course, that bearing will still read 180 degrees off
your bearing of travel (in this case 225 degrees). If it doesn't, it
means that you are off course. Sailors and sea kayakers use back bearings
all the time to check for lateral drift from wind or currents. Back
bearings are also useful if you are heading out to someplace and then
returning along the same line of travel (see Figure 6.14). There are
two basic formulas for calculating a back bearing.
Download a printable version of this section
|
 |